13 Sep, 2018
Suits are the indispensable items of a man’s wardrobe. From wedding to a formal occasion, men in suits can subtly accentuate and shift their otherwise causal appearance to that of a neat and handsome personality. The only condition applied here is that your suit is a properly stitched and carefully construed piece with every minute detail on point.
You may not often wear a suit, but when you do, make sure it is properly stitched. In order to help you understand what all intricate details matter in the suit making, here is a personal comprehensive guide by Best Tailor Bangkokon the anatomy of men’s suit jacket!
Anatomy of Men’s Suit Jackets
Top Collar
The collar of a man’s suit should never be too large. It should snuggly fit without any gaps or creases creating an unsightly appearance. Also, your undershirt must be slightly out from the collar..
Shoulder
A shoulder is the first thing that establishes the fitting of a suit. Even though the suit is not intended for active wear, but the movement must be relatively easy. Thus, the ideal fit is the one whose shoulder is neither too tight nor too snug making the movement difficult. Where broad shouldered individuals can feel more confident in carrying a suit, the slim shouldered individuals can also enjoy the same by having a tailor put shoulder pads in place.
Lapel
Lapels greatly determine the time and knot style used within. With skinny lapels. Skinny ties look better. Although, quality suits usually have wider lapels. Another important thing is the type of lapels:
Notch: The most common type of lapel in which the top of the lapel and the bottom of the collar meets in anotch.
Peak: Strong edges pointing towards the shoulders makes this pattern formal, mostlyfound on double-breasted jackets.
Shawl: The continuous curve without a break like the peak or notch lapel makes it perfect for tuxedos.
Lapel Hole
Lapel hole is an opening of about 1-1.5 inch on the lapel used for holding decorative objects such as a flower or other accessories.
Outer Breast Pocket
A traditional pocket square is used for holding the pocket square. The breast pocket can be on either sides and should be used for slim, non-bulky items.
Suit Jacket Buttons
These buttons come in varieties of 1, 2, or 3 and its etiquettes vary for each number. For single button jacket, it always remains buttoned while standing but unfastened when sitting. Same goes for a two jacked button, in which the lower button is fastened and unfastened as per the posture. In the case of three buttons, the middle one is always fastened whereas the lower acts just like 1 & 2 and for the top button, the choice lies with you.
Pockets
For a suit, the pocket come in the following varieties:
- Thejetted pocketis dressy, which is why it is traditionally found on the tuxedo.
- Theflap pocketadds a touch of thickness on the hip, while the slit pocket gives a slimmer look.
- Angled pocketsare sportierand we recommend that it should always have a flap for a better look.
- Aticket pocketwas originally used for holding train tickets, but now it is seen in suits for adding a distinctive appearance.
- Apatch pocketis aptfor sports jackets but definitely not for a formal suit.
Sleeve Cuffs
Cuffs of these suitsdepend on one’s individual taste. Waterfall buttons, where buttons slightly overlap on one another are more unusual than the standard back-to-back buttons.
Sleeve Vents
The sleeve vents are available at the cuff of a suit. Depending on the style, this portion can either have an actual vent where the buttons can be unfastened or sewn jointly to uphold a more buttoned-up look. Although top quality suits use a true sleeve vent in which the wearer may leave the bottom button unfastened to flaunt a working cuff, which is indeed the way modern professionals wear it.
Back Vents
There are mainly three types of back vents in a custom made suit bangkok:
- No Vent (ventless) – This style is more fitted preferred by the Italians. The downside is when you sit down or put your hands in your pockets, the jacket creases and bunches up in the back.
- Single Vent – This is the least expensive option in which the vent exposes their backside when one places his hands in the trouser pockets. This gives more of a boxy appearance.
- Double or Two-Sided Vent – This is the most preferred and comfortable vent type, which allows fluid hand movement. It gives the wearer added shape. When he sits or put his hands in the pocket, the flap comes up preventing the jacket from creasing up while also keeping the back covered.
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